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If there’s one thing Portland parents can agree on, it is that swimming lessons are too hard to get into. Use this as a conversational opening, if you are looking to make friends with other parents some afternoon at the Kennedy School, and you can’t go wrong. Four years later, processes and protocols have changed, some places have opened and one is closed (RIP Tub and Tan, a true Portland original). I get pretty bad migraines that are triggered by heat, so I didn’t go into the sauna. But other folks go in between the sauna and pool.
EVERY WEDNESDAY ALL DAY
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There are two saunas to choose from, a social one and a silent one. My friend and I opted for the face mask and foot soak special, which meant we also got a sparkling water and a salt scrub. What hasn’t changed is the joy of soaking or getting in a sauna in the cold, dark months of winter, one of those pleasures that Californians will never understand. So I decided to go out and revisit the old favorites that remained open and check out two new options. Are there gender-specific hours? No, but each hot tub is private.

Löyly
The retreat studio at Blooming Moon Spa is the closest you are going to get to Tub and Tan these days, while, somehow, also being very, very far away from Tub and Tan. Essentially, you are renting out a hot tub and a cute little room with a steam shower in the back of Blooming Moon Spa. Inside, people are getting massages and manicures and outside, you are alone in your own brightly lit (on a sunny day) space. Several stories up in the imposing Yard building on the east side of the Burnside Bridge, Knot Springs is aiming to be the total package.

Tips for Making the Most of Your Experience
There used to be single-gender naked hours. Now, anyone can come at any time, and you always need to wear a swimsuit. You will also need to show proof of vaccination, which is not a bummer at all.
The Russian bath house, also known as a banya, has been a part of Russian culture for centuries. It was originally used for bathing and socializing, and was seen as a place to bond with friends and family. Over time, the banya evolved into a place for relaxation and rejuvenation, and it is now a popular wellness destination around the world. There comes a time when you need to peel off those sweaty workout clothes or woolly winter layers and just be, skin to air.
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The spa area is in the basement of the building, which is a pedestrian word for what is more like a quiet, darkly lit cave. The hot tub bubbles away under a ceiling that looks like a star-filled night sky. Next to the hot pool is a “cold” plunge that was by far my favorite cold plunge of the bunch because, well, it isn’t that cold. It’s a perfect cool, like a dip in a lake on a hot day, or an ocean in a warmer part of the world. Totally refreshing without being painful.
Portland Bathhouse and Spa
If you’re looking to warm up, and you don’t mind naked people, Everett House is probably my first suggestion. You’ll pay more elsewhere but the outdoor pool and tiled steam room are, in my opinion, unmatched in Portland. And, unlike many places, you can pay for just half an hour. If you buy 10 half-hour visits in advance, they work out to be $12.80 each.
HOT POOL
When you arrive at the Russian bath house, you will be given a locker to store your belongings. You will then enter the steam room or sauna, where you can relax and detoxify your body. Some bath houses also offer cold plunge pools, which can be invigorating after a hot sauna session.
Newly-built Steam Room 〰️ OPENED April 19th, 2024 〰️
Even though you've pay full price already. To me, gay bathhouses—explicitly sexualized spaces—became so outside my comfort zone that I feared their parking lots. The experience at Knot Springs is highly structured if you want it to be. After a recent visit to Santé's high-end subterranean spa, I stand by that assessment.
And, a couple months ago, before I knew I was redoing this story, I did pay for it with my own money. Yes, in a separate room for an additional $20. $40 an hour for use of an infrared sauna but the first session is $30. One thing to note is that if you want to do a cold plunge, you need to get dressed and move to another room. Not the smoothest process there, but not much of a problem. Yes, people under 18 are welcome anytime and are only charged half.
Yes, you fill up a clawfoot tub outside and make your own. Tuesdays-Sundays, everetthousecommunityhealingcenter.com. Unlike some of the other social spots, Löyly on a Wednesday morning was very calm and nearly empty. The products here are all top-notch and I felt like a real lady of leisure after my morning sauna, face mask and foot soak. The pool at Kennedy School is warm, about 100 degrees, and is chlorinated saltwater, which feels great. Before I had a kid, I have to be honest, I was kind of annoyed by the kids that are basically always here.
This is great for Everett, which can turn into a bit of a scene in the evenings. People who are 16 and 17 are allowed with an adult. Towels, robes and sandals are provided.
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